客家宴席上的饮食“五美”
<p><span style="line-height: 2em; text-indent: 2em; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; font-size: 16px; background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254);"> 客家人宴席上的饮食非常讲究实用性的审美。材料取自天然，烹制时色、香、味、形俱佳，用膳时讲究趣味与气氛的和谐与融洽，在不经意间体现了客家饮食的“色美、味美、形美、器美、趣美”。</span></p><section data-role="outer" label="Powered by 135editor.com" style="font-size: 16px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section data-role="outer" label="Powered by 135editor.com" style="max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p style="max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><span style="max-width: 100%; color: rgb(0, 128, 255); box-sizing: border-box !important;"></span></p><section data-role="outer" label="Powered by 135editor.com"><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="88660" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box; "><section class="auto" style=" margin: 10px auto;box-sizing: border-box; "><section style="width: 100%; margin-bottom: -11px; box-sizing: border-box;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); float: left; border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); float: left; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: right; border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 100%; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); padding: 10px; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section class="135brush" style="box-sizing: border-box; padding: 5px 15px;"><p style="text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><strong>色美：</strong></span>既指原料自然美质的本色，又指各种原料的相互搭配。如宴席饮食中的甜酸萝卜丝，红白相间的胡萝卜与白萝卜，晶莹剔透，交相辉映；色泽爽朗的清蒸海虾，清纯细致，跃然入目。</p><p style="text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;">客家宴席菜肴除了感观刺激要求外，在颜色的选择上，更重视吉祥文化在颜色方面的体现。在客家人的各种欢庆场面，崇尚用红色衬托喜庆气氛，达到祈福消灾的目的。喜宴饮食的颜色趋向以绛红色为主调：橙黄的糯米粄撒上红糖，喜庆欢腾；绛红的梅菜扣肉如一面面排列整齐的梳子；红彤彤的爆油炸虾惹眼。相对而言，丧宴菜式的色彩则较好地契合丧事悲伤与低调的气氛，尤其讲究清淡和素雅。蒸鱼面上只铺着一层青椒葱花，豆腐也不再陪以鲜红的辣椒而被称为“白豆腐”。但即便如此，也还能看出颜色的素净之美。</p></section></section><section style="margin-top: -11px; width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: left; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); margin-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); float: right; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; margin-top: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section></section></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="88660" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box; "><section class="auto" style=" margin: 10px auto;box-sizing: border-box; "><section style="width: 100%; margin-bottom: -11px; box-sizing: border-box;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); float: left; border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); float: left; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: right; border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 100%; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); padding: 10px; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section class="135brush" style="box-sizing: border-box; padding: 5px 15px;"><p style="text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><strong>味美：</strong></span>在客家宴席菜肴烹饪过程中，厨师们除了保持食物的自然香味外，善于利用本地自产自制的调味料。此外，因宴席食材中选用肉类品种较多，所以在用料程序上，厨师习惯在烹制之前先用香辛料腌，以达到祛腥膻和入味的效果。</p><p style="text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;">客家菜肴以荤菜为主，口味偏咸。这是因为早期客家人大多身居山区，生活艰苦，为了保证体力活动需要的生理特点使然，一直延续至今。同时，清淡、消胀的汤食（如酸辣腌菜汤，雪薯排骨汤）与味重、油腻的主菜恰如其分地搭配，使得村民在满足口腹之欲时，也能达到咸淡的平衡。</p></section></section><section style="margin-top: -11px; width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: left; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); margin-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); float: right; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; margin-top: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section></section></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="88660" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box; "><section class="auto" style=" margin: 10px auto;box-sizing: border-box; "><section style="width: 100%; margin-bottom: -11px; box-sizing: border-box;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); float: left; border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); float: left; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: right; border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 100%; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); padding: 10px; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><p style="box-sizing: border-box; padding: 5px 15px; text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><strong>形美：</strong></span>在客家饮食菜肴中，人们在保持食物自然形态美外，有时以食物造型赋予菜式内在含义，从而通过进食方式达到饮食与心理的一种共鸣。在粤东客家地区，一种被称之为“算盘子”的糯米团子，光洁溜滑，甜中带香，寓意子孙聪敏好学，做事有划算。</p></section><section style="margin-top: -11px; width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: left; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); margin-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); float: right; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; margin-top: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section></section></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="88660" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box; "><section class="auto" style=" margin: 10px auto;box-sizing: border-box; "><section style="width: 100%; margin-bottom: -11px; box-sizing: border-box;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); float: left; border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); float: left; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: right; border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 100%; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); padding: 10px; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><p style="box-sizing: border-box; padding: 5px 15px; text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><strong>器美：</strong></span>客家人办宴席的菜式有十几道，各式器皿来自天然，使烹制出来的菜肴不变味，如蒸米饭是用木桶为身、篾筚为底、竹盖作顶的饭甑；蒸肉丸用的料箪也是竹篾编制的；赣南的一道称为“荷包胙”的米粉肉，更是以荷叶包裹，置于精美的瓷盘上，宛如出水芙蓉，翩然起舞。兴国的“四星望月”，更是栩栩如生。</p></section><section style="margin-top: -11px; width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: left; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); margin-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); float: right; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; margin-top: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section></section></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><section class="_135editor" data-tools="135编辑器" data-id="88660" style=" border-width: 0px; border-style: none; border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box; "><section class="auto" style=" margin: 10px auto;box-sizing: border-box; "><section style="width: 100%; margin-bottom: -11px; box-sizing: border-box;transform: rotate(0deg);-webkit-transform: rotate(0deg);-moz-transform: rotate(0deg);-ms-transform: rotate(0deg);-o-transform: rotate(0deg);" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); float: left; border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); float: left; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: right; border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 100%; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); padding: 10px; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><p style="box-sizing: border-box; padding: 5px 15px; text-indent: 2em; line-height: 2em;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><strong>趣美：</strong></span>古有“以乐侑食”的习俗。在客家宴席上，村民们有“猜拳”佐酒助兴的游戏，在觥筹交错间，赞美与祝愿之词洋溢与流淌出浓浓的意境美。</p></section><section style="margin-top: -11px; width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="100%"><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; float: left; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-right: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); margin-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="width: 11px; height: 11px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); border-left: 1px solid rgb(195, 2, 25); float: right; background-color: rgb(254, 255, 255); border-right-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); border-bottom-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"><section style="width: 5px; height: 5px; float: right; margin-top: 5px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; border-color: rgb(195, 2, 25); box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section><section style="clear: both; box-sizing: border-box;"></section></section></section></section><p style="text-align: center;"></p><p><br></p></section></section></section><p style="font-size: 16px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><br style="max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box !important;"></p><hr style="font-size: 16px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p style="font-size: 16px; max-width: 100%; min-height: 1em; color: rgb(62, 62, 62); font-family: 微软雅黑; line-height: 25.6px; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><strong style="max-width: 100%; line-height: 25px; box-sizing: border-box !important;">来源</strong><span style="max-width: 100%; line-height: 25px; box-sizing: border-box !important;">：客家新闻网</span></p><p><br></p><p></p>
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